In the centre of Tehran there are many fewer security forces on the streets. A stadium where Basij militia – an arm of the Revolutionary Guard – were based is now being used for sport again.
But the power of the regime is not far from the surface. On the main avenues black cars with the words special police painted on them move steadily through the traffic, each one containing four or five men in camouflage uniforms.
It has been much quieter these last few days. One elderly witness said she felt it was the calm of the grave.
[. . .]
When you ask Iranians about the way this might go, a phrase keeps cropping up. They say it might seem quiet to an outsider, but there is fire below the ashes.